By Stephanie Nguyen
In recent years, color analysis has trended on social media, even though the idea originated in the 1940s. The idea is that looking at the features of someone’s skin, such as whether it’s warm or cool-toned, is the key to finding the best colors for them to wear. For example, someone who is warm-toned would be a Spring or Autumn. The system has changed a lot ever since its conception, going from four seasons (winter, spring, summer and autumn) to 12 — and recently — 16.
The subjective definition of looking “good,” as well as its apparent euro-centrism, were a couple of flaws skeptics pointed out. Not only do color analysts have contradicting interpretations of the theory, but people of color struggle to see its relevance to them. Color seasons were determined by someone’s hair, skin and eye color. If someone has dark hair and eyes, they’re usually a Winter or Autumn. In the book “Color Me Beautiful” by Carole Jackson — which popularized the theory in the 1980s — only one person of color was provided as an example, and she was considered to be a Winter. If this were true, then the majority of the world would fall into two out of twelve seasons.
However, some have come up with a workaround. If it can help more people find their color season, then the style theory can be put to the test.
My plan was to try the method first, then drape the colors from her alleged palette close to her face and across the shoulders. Instead of assessing the color on how good it looks, I looked for any changes in her face when it’s near a certain hue. The “best” colors would clear up the skin, lighten dark circles and lift the cheekbones. The “worst” colors would make someone appear dull, darken the shadows on the face, or create a sallow complexion.
The Workaround: Rethink eyes, hair and skin color
Traditionally, color seasons are defined by someone’s features, as mentioned earlier. Yet according to DearPeachie, it should be relative to someone’s race. They’ve said that although most ethnicities have dark hair, there are a variety of shades of dark hair.
“Black” hair can range from a really dark brown — which is close to black-to-grey-black. Darker hair can also be warm-toned, with golden or red highlights, or cool-toned, with blue highlights. Taking all of this into account, this means anyone can be a lighter or muted season, they just have to be “light” or “muted” compared to others of their race.
When looking at my sister, it’s clear her hair is lighter than dark brown. Indoors it’s a medium brown, but depending on the time of day it can take on a reddish or golden hue. As for her eyes, they’re darker, but not onyx, so she’s “light” for her race.
Her hair and eye color would put her in a lighter season. But to determine her undertone, I followed DearPeachie’s guidelines from the video. In it, they said human skin undertones are a ratio of blue, yellow and red. The proportions of the colors would determine undertones. More red and/or yellow to blue would be considered warm, while an undertone with a higher ratio of blue to yellow and red would be a cool undertone. I decided my sister had a yellow undertone and overtone, appearing to glow in the sunlight.
So what’s her season?
I found out there are only two “light” seasons: Light Spring and Light Summer. Since all Summers are cool-toned, this makes her a Spring.
What are her “best” colors?
The last step before the draping was to find her specific palette, but I ran into a problem doing this. There were many suggestions online and I couldn’t find clothes with the exact shades I looked up. In the end, I followed a guideline from The Concept Wardrobe, a style theory blog, which said Light Springs looked best in colors that are “warm and fresh, but still light and gentle like the pastel colors of candy.” Basically warm-toned pastels and lighter neutrals. The colors considered to be her “worst” ones are the opposite: cool-toned, grayish and dark colors.
The draping
I wished I had the drapes professionals use because I would never use my clothes as a substitute ever again. When I started my DIY session she wouldn’t sit still, standing occasionally before running off to play. It wasn’t until the analysis that I learned my sister loves putting the clothes back in their place (by that I mean all over the floor). I also learned that light sage, electric lavender, dove grey and beige made her skin tone more even, but she aged in berry, black and olive green. Aqua brightened her complexion, and she isn’t overwhelmed by saturated colors like hot pink or by super warm colors like coral.
Colors like lavender and grey are cool-toned hues suitable for Summers, but according to the Vivaldi Color Lab, any season “can sometimes wear similar colors without issue.” Despite the little detail, the blog page cautioned that with sister seasons like Light Spring and Summer, there are still differences that distinguish them from each other. But overall, the system appears to be working.
What do I do with this information?
Color analysis can be helpful when choosing the best shades for anything that goes near the face. This means clothes, jewelry, makeup, hair dye, hats, scarves, bibs and the like. Based on the results of the analysis, it appears to be applicable to shirts, but what about everything else?
To test that, I used an app called Color Lover Lab –both available on the App Store and Google Play– and used its AR feature for my sister to try makeup on virtually. I went through a few lipsticks the app claimed were perfect for Light Springs, and just like the clothes, the shades brightened her face. However, she tried on makeup that was not on her palette without much of a difference. If she was much older and wore a 3CE lipstick in the shade Over It, I wouldn’t bat an eye. Due to her inability to say anything but around ten words (two of them are Ma and Ba), I was unable to get any comments from her, but she was interested to see her lips change color.
Conclusion
Color analysis is another style theory with its own guidelines to improve one’s style. Those without a clear style or on a tight budget can keep those tips in mind without feeling restricted. Others that know what’s flattering on them or have a unique sense of fashion might want to steer clear of the color wheel, which at best would tell them what they already know.
Fashion is a medium for self-expression; it looks different for everyone. For some, it’s cozy knits with Uggs, while for others it’s powder blue, soft peach and true red.
